Nota Bene: Since the post was made, Nimb Herman has closed. So has Malling & Schmidt, but Thorsten Schmidt can be found at Ruths Hotel i Skagen (Nordjylland). AOC has a new chef, Søren Selin, but still rides high.
Noma is king, but Copenhagen has lots more to offer when it comes to nordic oriented gourmet experiences, here’s a few suggestions.
GERANIUM: The newest superrestaurant in Denmark is Geranium, where 3-times bocuse d’Or medalist Rasmus Kofoed is Chef. The restaurant opened 2 years ago and gained 1 Michelin star, but closed last year, due to economic problems. Now Geranium is back in fantastic form, set in a truly impressive modern surrounding with a glass wall separating the incredible good looking kitchen from the guests.
Marvel at Chef Kofoed when he stands like a surgeon in the emergency room, at the front table where all dishes are checked before being sent to the tables. Here you will be amazed over the details, the ingineousness and the delicateness this masterchef offers. The winelist offers a large selection of top class biodynamic and other vin nature. Website: geranium.dk. My published review: http://pleasure.dk/gourmet/artikel/192793/mad_i_topklasse_indtager_faelledparken.html
My private snapshots: http://picasaweb.google.com/otborsen/Geranium2010?authkey=Gv1sRgCM7jo9jQ8KqngAE#
AOC: When Rasmus Kofoed won the silver medal at Bocuse d’Or 4 years ago, his assistant was the young chef Ronny Emborg. He now has his own kitchen, at the 1 star restaurant AOC. Here you can experience a fantastic avantgarde kitchen, with light and very delicate dishes. AOC’s wine list is famous, containing many classic greats. Website: http://restaurantaoc.dk/ My published review: http://borsen.dk/nyheder/foedevarer/artikel/1/193642/avantgarde_paa_aoc.html
NIMB HERMAN: Chef Thomas Herman was the first to start playing with traditional danish home cooking recipes, and turn them in to haute cuisine. His restaurant in Tivoli Gardens luxurious hotel- and restaurant complex is uncompromisingly high end, regarding food, service, wine and decor. One of the most luxurious and elegant restaurants in Denmark, unfairly decorated with only one michelinstar. http://www.nimb.dk
(Nimb Herman is now closed, and restaurant is called Nimb Louise. It is every bit as good and interesting as Herman!)
My private snapshots:
MIELCKE & HURTIGKARL: The Michelin guide has not awarded Mielcke & Hurtigkarl a star yet, maybe because chef Jacob Mielcke is a bit too adventourous. His partner Jan Hurtigkarl had a star back in the 80’s and is one of the true veterans. Star or not, the kitchen is extremely interesting, very modern and light and never boring. The interior is also beautiful, with a strong artistic profile. Website: http://www.mielcke-hurtigkarl.dk/
RELÆ: Chef Christian Puglisi used to work at Noma, but has now started his own, more modest restaurant in the bistro style with very attractive prices. It is situated in a basement, in a rustic neigbourhood but the interior is both welcoming and clean. The food is very interesting, playing on the new nordic theme but not disregarding proven successes as for example olive oil. Expect many vegetables and strange wines from the vin nature segment. Website: http://restaurant-relae.dk/ l . My review: http://pleasure.dk/gourmet/artikel/191141/gastronomisk_god_nyhed_i_rockergaden.htm
DRAGSHOLM SLOT: Former Noma chef Claus Henriksen is in charge of a similar nordic cuisine 1,5 hours drive outside Copenhagen, in a genuine castle, Dragsholm Slot. You can stay at the place and should, it is a remarkable experience, the food is fantastic and very “new nordic” in style plus expertly crafted. Website: www.dragsholm-slot.dk.
MALLING & SCHMIDT: In the town of Århus in Jylland (25 minutes flight from Copenhagen, 4 hour train ride) you can have a fine nordic experience at Malling & Schmidt, featured in this blog: