Copenhagen loses stars but gains further gastronomic foothold


Christian Puglisi

Just as nobody expected the spanish inquisition in the Monty Python universe, nobody – or at least very few – expected the Michelin guide to bypass Noma in the latest guide.
But Noma did not get the third star, they remain at two.
I expected them to get three, as their cuisine is fantastic and outshines several threestar places I have dined at. I also expected the magnificent Nimb Herman in Tivoli Gardens to receive an extra and Geranium to gain the first at their fantastic new place.

Many are outraged over the abscence of extra stars this, as it seems obvious that these fine restaurants are receiving less accolade than restaurants in other countries, where the bar is lower, so to speak.
But I think it should be understood, that Michelin works under their own rules. What they really want is to sell guide books, and they sell very few in Denmark, so less attention is given to Denmark.
There has been a large focus on the new guide-regions like New York, San Fransisco and Japan, where the guides are sold in hundreds of thousands.

In total Copenhagen lost two stars, and not because the quality dwindled, but because the restaurants closed. Not because they served bad food – the chefs Bech and Refslund are great talents – but because of a bad economy.

Denmark received 6 new Bib Gourmands which underlines the fact, that the gastronomy is still going strong in Denmark. Let me especially recommend restaurant Relæ, where ex-Noma/El Bulli chef Christian Puglisi reigns.

Here are the Bib Gourmands anno 2011:

Enomania

Famo

Frederiks Have

Kanalen

Fiskebaren

L’Altro

Le Sommelier

Mêlée

Orangeriet

Relæ

Skovshoved Hotel

Søren K

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s