Copenhagen loses stars but gains further gastronomic foothold

Christian Puglisi

Just as nobody expected the spanish inquisition in the Monty Python universe, nobody – or at least very few – expected the Michelin guide to bypass Noma in the latest guide.
But Noma did not get the third star, they remain at two.
I expected them to get three, as their cuisine is fantastic and outshines several threestar places I have dined at. I also expected the magnificent Nimb Herman in Tivoli Gardens to receive an extra and Geranium to gain the first at their fantastic new place.

Many are outraged over the abscence of extra stars this, as it seems obvious that these fine restaurants are receiving less accolade than restaurants in other countries, where the bar is lower, so to speak.
But I think it should be understood, that Michelin works under their own rules. What they really want is to sell guide books, and they sell very few in Denmark, so less attention is given to Denmark.
There has been a large focus on the new guide-regions like New York, San Fransisco and Japan, where the guides are sold in hundreds of thousands.

In total Copenhagen lost two stars, and not because the quality dwindled, but because the restaurants closed. Not because they served bad food – the chefs Bech and Refslund are great talents – but because of a bad economy.

Denmark received 6 new Bib Gourmands which underlines the fact, that the gastronomy is still going strong in Denmark. Let me especially recommend restaurant Relæ, where ex-Noma/El Bulli chef Christian Puglisi reigns.

Here are the Bib Gourmands anno 2011:



Frederiks Have




Le Sommelier




Skovshoved Hotel

Søren K

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