Rasmus Grønbech is back. He was Chef of the year 1998 and cofounder of restaurant Premisse in 2004, a fantastic restaurant that never achieved the expected recognition from Guide MIchelin.
I loved the place, actually celebrated my birthday there several times, as the cuisine was sharp as a razor and so was the service. A true top place and it still is, although the name is AOC.
Rasmus Grønbech is one of the most talented chefs we have in Denmark. On top of that, he is one of the most dedicated, intractable gastronomes.
I reviewed his food back in 2002 at restaurant The dining room, and had the first taste of his inclination to cook with sweet tastes. Which he always has denied, strangely enough.
In his new place he is as sharp as ever, delivering a fantastically clean taste, serving produce of high quality with very little interference.
His serving of lumpsucker roe is unsalted and gets contrast by veal tartare (!).
Braised oxchin/jaw is contrasted by celeriac with bitter lemon.
Cod with oyster is heavenly and dessert contains carrot and buckthorn, which is just a tad boring, as it is seen too often. But all forgiven, he just started out and he is in fine shape, a shape that will get much better in a couple of months.
Never the less, Restaurant Grønbech & Churchill is a new must in Copenhagen!
PS: Restaurant is situated across the Churchill Park, thats why the old bulldogs name is included. It is not because Rasmus Grønbech has any resemblance to Chruchill at all. “We will fight them at our beaches,” and all that. No-no.