An american in Copenhagen: Finally, Noma. But only 20 courses.

Thursday at 12.30 the highlight of the program was reached; Noma.

When I was a very young cooks apprentice around 1980, it was accidently just opposite the harbour and the warehouse that now is home for Noma. In the summes I would often sit at the dock peeling potatoes and such, gazing over to the other side, daydreaming. But I – nor anyone else I suppose – never dreamt there would one day be a restaurant in that warehouse. Let alone the worlds best restaurant!

It is my privilege to have been the first to review Noma, as it opened in 2004 (review can be found at I called it sensational, and that it became. I do not flatter myself to say that I have any shares in this, it was pure coincidence that I was first.
Since then I have eaten several times at Noma, and seen how the place has evolved from great to fantastic. I am eager to see how my american colleague reacts to Noma, especially as he has just been to Alinea.

He whines a little bit about having had breakfast and lunch, before coming here, and I confess to being naughty. But on the other hand, it would have been a crime to let him visit Copenhagen, without having tried smørrebrød.

Bread in disguise.

The show is about to start, and it starts with malt flatbread and juniper, although we thought it was a table decoration.

Next is moss and cep. Do we eat this? Yess.

Wonderful orange seabuckthorn leather and pickled hip roses

Comforting leek and garlic

Mussel with edible shell.


Cookie with lardo and currant. Cookies already? No, not really.

Rye bread, chicken skin, lumpfish roe and smoked cheese. Deeelicious and crunchy.

Pickled and smoked quails egg. Beautiful.

Radish, soil and herbs. Now a classic.

Toast, herbs, smoked cod roe and vinegar

Æbleskiver and muiiko. A true danish classic, slightly redzepidized.

Shrimp and urchin

Renés feast in a medidative slideshow:

Cream and dill

Scallops and beech nut

Watercress and grains

Tartar and sorrel
Juniper and tarragon


Bread and woodruf

Purple carrot and watercress

Truffles from Gotland

Hen and the egg (Duck egg)

Veal sweetbread and peas
Nasturtium and young garlic

‘Gammel dansk’

Carrots and sea buck thorn

Brown cheese and beetroot

My american pal was thrilled. He said, that some of the dishes was sheer genius, and that is a very high praise as this gentleman is an incredibly competent food critic. But then again; This is the best restaurant in the world…

He looked a tad bit disturbed, when I let him in on the plans for the evening. Two more restaurants…

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