Claus Meyer – co-founder of Noma – has opened a new restaurant that runs along some of the same lines at Noma. René Redzepi is not involved in the project, that can be called a casual modern nordic terroir restaurant. As such, it may be fitting to call Radio a cousin of Noma, although it is a more simple and relaxed place, at a much lower price point.
Most of the ingredients are sourced locally, partly from Claus Meyers own fruit orchards and fields, partly from local farmers, hunters etcetera.
Contrary to popular belief – especially outside Denmark – Claus Meyer is not a chef as such, and he is not working in the restaurant. Meyer is a gifted gastronomic entrepreneur, who has done more for the gastronomy in Denmark than anyone else, apart from René Redzepi, who Meyer hired to start Noma.
At restaurant Radio Claus Meyer is pushing the nordic idea, as well as an idea of creating a particularly healthy food style, within the nordisc borders.
The food is cooked and presented in a clean style, where each ingredient tend to stand out, rater than blend in. Fat is used sparingly and often replaced by fruit, like the serving of duck breast where a fruit compote stands in for a fat sauce.
I really like the new restaurant Radio, and it reminds me of restaurant Relæ. Personnaly I prefer a more hedonistic approach to eating, but I know that Meyer is right, when he preaches “more vegetables, more fibres, less fat and sugar,” and I think he and his chefs (and waiters) are doing a great job at Radio.
My review at newspaper Børsen: