My american colleague is still savouring the wienerbrød, as we pull up in front of the basement where restaurant Schønnemann has resided sine 1877. This is a true original in the genre of smørrebrødsrestaurant, but in an updated version with true ambition. A cosy, yet elegant place packed densely with tables, in a degree it can sometimes be hard to get to and from your table. Especially after eating..
The quintessential danish food is smørrebrød (open sandwiches). For centenaries the smørrebrød was considered lowclass and forgotten as a gastronomic element. One of the first to bring smørrebrød back to glory was Schønnemann. I am proud to say, that I was the first to review the place – not in 1877 but in 2007 – when the current owners wrestled Schønneman out of the hands of the wrongdoers, who mismanaged this gem.
Even though we were heading to Noma, I thought my american colleague should have a taste of tradiitional danish food at its very best. This is where he – for the first time today – regretted the three pieces of danish for breakfast.
The right kind of service is important, in order to become genuinely happy at a danish lunch. This you will experience here, where the swift and nimble waiters never rest.
The penalty for eating breakfast, was one small smørrebrød for each piece of wienerbrød. Usually they are five times this size, but small samplers come in handy. From left; minced beef on a slice of buttertoasted bread “pariserbøf. Smoked Halibut, called Renés special, after Mr. Redzepi. And on the right, the rightfully danish specialty; pickled heering.
To cheer up my american pal, I reward him for finishing the smørrebrød, with a portion of rabarberkage, a compote of rhubarb with whipped cream. After all, there is still 45 minutes before we are expected at Noma…
Schønnemann
Hauser Plads 16
København
http://www.restaurantschonnemann.dk
danskfrokost@mail.dk
Tlf.: 3312 0785
Read my review of Schønneman on http://www.borsen.dk
Ole Troelsø 