New toprestaurant in Copenhagen: Nimb Louise

Chef Allan Poulsen has taken over from Thomas Herman, at Tivoli Gardens flagship gourmet restaurant. It’s a blast, as Poulsen takes the place to a new and different level, with modern nordic cooking as his speciality, topped up with a dash of luxury.
Winelist has been updated with a lot of natural wines on top of the fine selection of classic wines. Service is still top notch and surroundings beautiful.

Slideshow of my snapshots for the review, that can be read in newspaper Børsen.

Danish winemaker Peter Sisseck and restaurant manager Peter Pepke

Noma did it again

Well, it isn’t news anymore. I reported live on my Facebook profile, from The Guild Hall in London. It was irritating to know, that the result had been leaked, but I chose to go with the flow from stage, and report as things progressed.

And what a flow. During the day tensions was high. Would Noma do it again? At five I walked around to check out the name tags on chairs. I saw ten seats reserved for Noma, and reckoned this was a good sign. I saw one seat at the very front, reserved for Grant Achatz of Alinea. I was afraid Alinea might climb up and push my countrymen aside.

First people gathered in the courtyard. Then they went for drinks and snacks, before going to the hall for the prize ceremony. And then there were more drinks downstairs.

As we all know, Noma won again and so Denmark is secured a lot of gastronomic attention for at least another year. So it is up to newcomers Relæ and Geranium to start carrying the weight, and help promote danish gastronomy. As jurymember of 50 Best I voted for them both, and I believe they will keep climbing.

Especially Geranium has a potential to greatness, I was reminded the other day as I lunched there. What a restaurant! Since my last visit – which was great – things have improved dramatically. Will have to get a table at Relæ soon, they surely rock.

Here’s a few snapshots of the movers and shakers from the happy evening.

http://youtu.be/88AmAhrQzk4

Stay the night at Broholm castle

On the island Fyn, between Jutland and Sealand, lies the ancient castle Broholm Gods. The place has rented rooms out for some years, but recently there was added a restaurant.

It serves food of a fine quality, mostly based on local produce, cooked with influence from the north and south. Not dogmatic, but very delicious. Foie gras thrives alongside local hyperfresh fish and vegetables, which the island Fyn is famous for.

Surroundings are amazing, cosy and scary if you believe in ghosts. This is a great place to spend a night or two, and you can find other good restaurants in the area; the famous Falsled Kro in Millinge and the young, relaxed but very good restaurant 5 in Svendborg.

Snapshots from dinner and breakfast:

 

Same pictures and more in a slideshow:

My review in Børsen:

http://pleasure.dk/gourmet/artikel/229199/sydfynsk_gourmet_med_gods_i.html

Mads Refslund in New York

Danish chef Mads Refslund has had a successful debut in New York, where he has been a consultant to restaurant ACME’s new kitchen style, and since january held the position as chef de cuisine.

In the american press he is widely described as “Noma co-founder” and he definetely was Rene Redzepis co-chef de cuisine. But Mads left Noma after a few months, and gives Redzepi the full honour of creating the success Noma has had.

He later created his own restaurant, called MR and gaining a Michelin star. It was a wonderful place, that I reviewed to the highest points. What he is doing today at ACME is not at the same level as what he did at Noma or restaurant MR.

I find the style at ACME much more rustic, the attention to details less and the quality of produce lower. But again, ACME is not a fine dining venue, and the food styles identity, is no doubt typical for Mads Refslund.

I enjoyed seeing this relaxed side of Mads, but look forward to seeing him back in the haute cuisine game sometime in the future, as his talent is very rare and deserves a finer canvas than ACME.

My snapshots from the dinner:

 

Elegant nordic cuisine in Arne Jacobsen design hotel

Arne Jacobsen (1902-71) was one of the most famous danish architects, known for designs like the Egg chair. He also designed the Royal Hotel in Copenhagen, the citys first high rise building.
On the top floor you will find Alberto K, a young, nordic inspired gourmet restaurant. Head chef Søren Selin fronts a very gifted team of chefs, and the wait staff is also top notch.

As mentioned the kitchen is nordic inspired and most ingredients are sourced locally, with few exceptions like the black truffles. All is forgiven for my part.
The surroundings are amazing, evrything designed by Arne Jacobsen and the view over Copenhagen – with Tivoli Gardens just below – is unique.

I think this is one of Copenhagens hidden gems, it could easily hold a Michelin star, so if you are out of luck regarding reservations at the famous places – try Alberto!

For 800 DKK (app. 100 euro) you can have this menu, and if you want the wine menu add another 800 DKK:

Cucumber salad
Oysters, horseradish and dill
Sancerre “La Moussière”
Alphonse Mellot, Loire France

North Sea cod
Cabbage from Kiselgården and seaweed
Meursault “Les Charrons”
J.M. Boillot, Bourgogne France

Langoustine
Celery, sorrel and browned butter
Riesling “Cuvée Frédéric Emile”
F. E. Trimbach, Alsace France

New potetoes
Smoked egg yolk and truffle
Gevrey-Chambertin
Domaine Dupont-Tisserandot, Bourgogne France

Lamb from Vallø
Burned onions and mushrooms
No.41 Merlot L’Ecole, Washington State USA

Charmomile
Soured milk and sweet woodruff
Riesling “Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr” Auslese
Frtiz Haag, Mosel Germany

Warm spices
Hazelnuts and caramel
Castelnau de Suduiraut, Sauternes France

My review in Børsen:

http://pleasure.dk/gourmet/artikel/228421/nordisk_topklasse_paa_toppen_af_hoejhuset.html

Slideshow from my dinner in march 2012: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wk6MnaeJmrc&list=UU1K669DrP1SyMqwHyh73x4Q&index=2&feature=plcp

New michelinstars in Copenhagen

Noma did not get their third star. I dont get it, and Michelin certainly does not either. I can no longer regard the guide as the most serious gastronomic lighthouse, since this is clearly a statement saying that no matter what 50 Best says, Michelin makes up their own mind. Which they should! But come on, Noma is clearly on top of the game, much better than for example Restaurant Pierre Gagnaire in Paris.

On the other hand, thumbs up for rewarding Relæ. I suggested last year, that they should have a star. And Rasmus Grønbech absolutely deserves his, I think it needed a change in i spectors/editor to reward this many-times-neglected gastronome.

The 1 stars:

New: Geranium, Grønbech & Churchill, Relæ , Den Røde Cottage.

The old ones: AOC, Herman, Kokkeriet, Era Ora, Formel B, Kiin Kiin, Kong Hans Kælder og Søllerød Kro.

Bib Gourmand: Marv & Ben (new), Orangeriet, Enomania, Mêlée, Søren K, Skovshoved, Famo, Frederiks Have, Kanalen, Kødbyens Fiskebar, L’Altro and Le Sommelier.

Will Noma get the third star?

Rene Redzepi

On wednesday 14th march, the 2012 Michelin guide will be presented. The very big question is, if Noma will receive the third star.
In my opinion, there should be no doubt. If I compare my experiences at 3 star restaurants around the world, none of them outshines the gastronomy of Noma. I can mention several that are hopelessly behind Noma, but I would rather mention one, that is very close when it comes to feeling: L’Arpege. However, René Redzepi and Co. are delivering a dining experience that is even greater than that.

Carrots

I have followed Noma since the opening. I have the honour of being the first to review the restaurant, and I found the food great, right from the beginning.
During the years I have not always felt, that this should be a 3 Michelin star restaurant, but now, there is no doubt. And if Michelin does not award the third star, the guide is pouring gasoline of the fire that has burned for some years, after the infamous review of a restaurant that had not yet opened.

But I believe that Michelin has made progress lately, and that the guide will stay on top, as the most prestigious, trustworthy restaurant guide in the world.

Here’s a few shaky slides from my recent dinner at Noma:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n1R6y_V6g1M$

Delicious upscale bistro in Århus

Foreign gastrotourists seldom make it to Århus, Denmarks second largest city. Thats a shame, as the town has much to offer. The latest opening is by chef Palle Enevoldsen, who was an important gastronomic figure in the 90′ies. He made a comeback with restaurant Frederikshøj, and invited young superchef Wassim Hallal aboard. They split up, and now Palle Enevoldsen has launched a new a la carte restaurant in the 1920-building Varna Palæet in the woods on the outskirts of Århus.

I suggest you visit Århus and stay at the Marselis Hotel, near Varna and Frederikshøj. At the latter you will experience haute cuisine and super service, at Varna you will experience a very fine cuisine on the mopre classic direction, paired with fine service and good wines.

The setting is beautiful, with a view to the bay, in the very charming old building. And when you are in Århus, dont miss Malling & Schmidt, the new nordic corner of town.

The new Michelinguide for France (2012)

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michelin guide france

This is the official press release from Michelin, regarding the 2012 guide for France.

Michelin Guide France, 2012

Søllerød Kro – The elegant country inn

Just reviewed Søllerød Kro (again). An amazing place, founded in 1677 and comparable to a museum, but also one of Denmarks best restaurants, bearing a Michelin star.

The service is perfect, the tone being formal but friendly. Restaurant manager Jan Restorff is one of the countrys best waiters and a fantastic host. His team is also very gifted, and I think you will not find better service in Denmark.

Jan Restorff

The food is a combination of classic french cuisine with modern elements, and the quality is very high. Recently chef Jacob de Neergaard left the kitchen of Søllerød, and I think the quality has dropped a bit. The food is still great, but it lacks a little of the shine and extravagancy it had during Neergaards reign.

But never the less, Søllerød Kro is a fantastic restaurant, and truly unique in it’s combination of fine dining, quaint country inn and excellent service.

The wine list is one of the finest in Denmark. Classic wines dominate, and you can find fantastic wines at high prices as well as more humble bottles at moderate prices.

 

Slideshow from my dinner at Søllerød Kro, january 2011.

http://youtu.be/-a-3meU9pTg

Link to my review in Børsen:

http://pleasure.dk/gourmet/artikel/224859/topkarakter_til_kbhs_elegante_landsbykro.html

http://www.soelleroed-kro.dk/